NYFW SS14: Tadashi Shoji

It’s NYFW!! For the first time in a year I’m actually able to cover it! That’s one of the perks of graduating. I’ve decided, with these circumstances, that I would dust off the old blog and get her back up and running. I’m making an initiative for myself, to use social media to its full potential to promote myself as a fashion designer, blogger, and vlogger (my youtube channel is boldlysewing).

So yeah, fashion week. It’s happening. Let’s look and some pretty dresses and I’ll tell you what I think.

Let me preface this with the fact that I love Tadashi Shoji. His work is always stellar. I was actually extremely fortunate to get to see his show last season and it was a dream.

Style.com‘s review had a great quote from him, “You don’t have to wear big shoulder pads and dark suits to be a powerful woman.” So much love for this quote. You can see this throughout the collection.

Overall, this is one marvelous collection. It’s like opening up a box of lacy, flowery and plaid macarons (someone needs to get on that. Plaid macarons would be amazing.).

Let’s break it down with some highlights:

From Style.com

From Style.com

This is going to sound like a ‘duh’ statement, but I like to start with the first look. In a fashion show the first look should be, in many ways, the thesis statement of your collection. I should be able to tell you exactly what the rest of the collection is going to be about from this first look. What do you see? Really look at it and see what you think you’ll be expecting from the rest of the collection. First off, there’s the sea foam green. That clues us into the color scheme. There’s the top, in that sheer plaid. That gives us another hint, and then there’s the metallic sheen of the dress. So what can we expect to see? Pastels, metallics and plaids. Overall I think this look is cute. It doesn’t quite muster up to the rest, but it’s still very pretty.

from Style.com

from Style.com

This is very cute. Love the lace, love the colors. I could see Michelle Obama or maybe even (and this may just be the model) Michelle Dockery wearing it.

From Style.com

From Style.com

I can’t decide whether I like or dislike this. I feel like theres a bit more sheer to actual dress than I would prefer. The waistline should be more defined and then the should be a bit shorter.

Style.com

Style.com

This is fabulous. I want this dress. My favorite piece in the entire collection. Don’t need to say much more. Bravo.

Style.com

Style.com

I want this one too. So cute, and I want those sandals too.

From Style.com

From Style.com

2nd favorite dress in the collection. It’s so pretty and ethereal. Those shoes do not belong though. Should have gotten an extra pair of those white sandals

From Style.com

From Style.com

This would make for a great press event/premiere dress. Love it.

Here are some more of my favorites:

From Style.com

From Style.com

Runway Rundown: Carolina Herrera, Derek Lam and Louis Vuitton

I know I’ve been reviewing collections on an individual basis but honestly, resort collections are normally small (unlike Oscar De La Renta and Bottega Veneta) that combined with the fact that I am so far behind on them, has led me to consolidate.

So fasten your seatbelts, here we go:

Carolina Herrera

Image from Style.com

I really really love this coat. I handed my IPod over to my mom and asked for her two cents on this collection and when she came to this look she noted that there was too much going, I hadn’t seen it before but I’m beginning to see it. It really isn’t a problem of design. I think that alone this coat would be impeccable, but it’s in the styling where the fault lies. The scarf needs to go–and be replaced by a more solid scarf. Otherwise it’s a gorgeous, elegant coat. I mean imagine that coat with a basic desaturated pink dress underneath…gorgeous!

Image from Style.com

 I really don’t like this one. The skirt looks too paper towel-y for my tastes. The silhouette also looks off. Perhaps there’s a body type that that would be flattering on (none are coming to mind right now) but I just find it aesthetically displeasing. Also the belt isn’t helping the look and the white on the bodice and the white don’t match or go together.

From Style.com

Carolina seems to have caught Mondo fever, and it seems to be a nasty case. This is a train wreck. Not only is the dress rick-rackfully awful, the print is just awful and even worse–it isn’t lined up! Oh and don’t get me started on that fleshy pink on the straps. I mean if you’re paying the big bucks for a dress, because I’m assuming a Carolina Herrera dress doesn’t come cheap–you might as well get one where A) You’re not drowning in a massive print B)The prints actually match–this usually involves spending more money on more fabric but it just looks very amateurish C) The “splash of color” isn’t a scary fleshy pink.
Derek Lam

From Style.com

Not sure exactly what’s going on with the top, but I love the bold blue in the sash and bag handle. Exceptionally and very, very, cute.

From Style.com

Another wonderfully put together look. While it isn’t my average cup of tea, I really like it. It’s graphic but subtle, with some great proportions going on.

From Style.com

Not so subtle, but still fabulous. The neckline is refreshingly different and goes beautifully with the lines created by the pockets and the color blocking of the pants.

From Style.com

Loooooove it! Very cute, very casual–I love it! I would definitely wear that myself!

Louis Vuitton

Overall this collection was just fabulous.  It’s a modern take on a sort of 1920s meets 1960s look. It’s a textbook example of how to have a period as an inspiration and not have it be too literal. Hard to say much that’s negative about it all of the below looks are absolutely fabulous. So here are some fabulous photos and enjoy!

Until next time,
Sew On!
Emily

Runway Rundown: Oscar De La Renta Resort 2012

I think I’m on a roll! I think that if I just keep at this with enough diligence, I’ll get around to posting on a much more regular basis. I really want to try to keep on the ball with all of the resort shows, or at least the big names and my personal favorites, so I decided to get as much as I could done on my day off and then release them a little more spread out. At least now I can do something more productive with my free time.

The next resort show on my list is Oscar De La Renta. I love his designs, they are the epitome of elegance. There’s also this wonderful quality to his clothes, that no matter what age you are, be it 18 or 82, there’s something in his collections for you. He’s also one of my major design influences. Yes, I am an Oscar fan. A big one.

This collection was kind of like a Lady Gaga music video. The first time through was confusing and by the end I had to sit there and just try to make the slightest bit of sense of it. After about watch three or four, in a crazy way it was beginning to make sense.

The over-arching themes were Picasso and Flamenco, as far as I could tell. It was a very graphic array of looks, and definitely pushed the boundaries of the typical Oscar De La Renta aesthetic. Like the Bottega Veneta collection, there were looks I liked, and looks that I didn’t. There were certainly a lot more of both.

Looks I Liked:

I loooove this look! I love how the stripe-detail on the shirt follows down into the skirt. I love how bold and graphic the horizontal stripes are. The blazer is also absolutely fabulous.

I want this dress. Actually I’d settle for a bolt of that fabric. I love digital, non-traditional prints like this. The color is a stunner, too. I am usually very skeptic when it comes to bubble hems, but this one really works for me. I would love to see someone like Lea Michelle or Leighton Meester (I’m sure this will pop up on an episode of Gossip Girl). It would look really great with a black cardigan too, with a wide leather headband, black pumps and patterned tights.

There are always a lot of Red Carpet looks in an Oscar De La Renta collection, and this one (as well as another one) really stood out to me. I do not understand the sweater, but the dress is unexpectedly refreshing. It has an antique, ornate feel but it’s fabulously airy. I really enjoy the line work on the bottom half. I haven’t seen video of this collection, but I bet it moved like a dream.

I feel like on the right person this could be a very memorable red carpet look. There isn’t much to say about this look, other than I would very much like to see the back

I would have liked a smidgen more structure, but it’s hard to tell on models. I love the graphic element of it. The dark blues and the sequins or beading are a homerun. This would also make for a knockout red carpet look.

Looks I Wasn’t All That Crazy About:

On a piece-by-piece basis, I like this look. I love the skirt, I kinda dig the jacket but together I just feel like it’s a bit too noisy. If it were me, I would pair the skirt with a white button up blouse, probably something more bohemian than the average oxford shirt I would then pair it with a simple black blazer and some statement jewelry. That skirt is a star and it needs a strong supporting cast–not an extra strong lead. The jacket would look fabulous with shorts or high waisted black trousers and a simple tank top.

Remember how I said I was skeptic about bubble hems? This is why. There’s a certain ratio in which bubble skirts work and it has to do with length and volume. This dress is too long for the lack of puffiness. It just kind of looks like a balloon about a week after it was inflated. In the words of the great Heidi, “It looks sad.” Which is in itself sad because the color is so vibrant and fabulous. The top is iffy too. Don’t know what’s going on with the sash.

Feather duster. ‘Nuff said.

And last but not least is the section I’d like to call Michelle Obama’s new wardrobe.

All images from Style.com

Runway Rundown: Bottega Veneta Resort 2012

Once again, it’s been a while since my last post—but I’m making a comeback (hopefully!)! I just started working but I think I can get back into the groove of things.

Resort Collections are kicking off and it’s the perfect time for me to do something I’ve always wanted to do; runway reviews! It’s a daunting task—especially during the regular seasons—but resort is a lot less structured. There is no set “resort week” it’s more like a month or two. For me, it’s a good way to tide over until the spring shows and the Haute Couture—which will be in July.

So far, there have only been three major resort collections: Chanel, Oscar De La Renta and Bottega Veneta. I just viewed the latter one this morning and felt that there was a good range of looks.

Bottega Veneta is one of the top luxury brands. Their motto kind of says it all about them; “When your own initials are enough.”

Overall, there were looks I loved, looks I didn’t, and looks that weren’t all that memorable. I’ll show you guys what I thought were the best and worst.

This one, by far, is one of my favorite looks. I love the dress–the bustier/corset details are fantastic as well as the contrast between the two fabrics and the piping. On paper, all of those elements would be wince-inducing–far too much for one dress but somehow it all comes together. It would make one fantastic Red Carpet look. Oh and that jacket? Want it. It’s fabulous.

First of all, the color is just marvelous. It’s hard to imagine that anyone could look bad in that color. I’ve always had a weak spot for trench coats–and that’s a marvelous specimen. The dress is equally stellar. It looks like it’s just dripping off the model. Absolutely stunning.

I’m not quite sure exactly what type of look this is, if I had to guess it looks like a knit bathing suit with a cardigan. As impractical as it is, I dig it. It would make a fabulous editorial look. I love how it sort of straddles the line between sexy and conservative. I love the fabric too.

I feel like this look is a fashion disaster waiting to happen. The fact that it’s capris is a big problem. I’ve never really liked them, and they really don’t do any favors to anyone, particularly in that length. Add that with it being a strapless romper thingy and the taffeta garbage bag effect of the fabric and it’s much too much.

Let’s break it down: It’s a pepto-pink full length dress with a puff sleeve with a corset with harness-y details. Like many of the looks, there’s quite a lot to it. It may just be my own objective opinion, but I just don’t like it. I think it’s the harness details. They were in other parts of the collection, and I just didn’t get it.

What do you guys think?

Enjoy

Em

Note: All images from Style.com

Let’s Get Digital! Digital!

No this isn’t a Olivia Newton John themed post. Today I wanted to give you guys a little insight into an aspect of my design process as well as maybe inspire some other people!

So a while back I was really bored (why does it seem that all of my stories begin this way?) while playing around on photoshop. I had a few croquis (templates used for design…kind of like paperdolls…but not really…) laying around on my computer that I had used for my Textiles and Apparel class. So I opened them up on photoshop, plugged in my snazzy tablet and went to town.

I really began to enjoy it. I could alter things with much more precision, I had a world of colors and nifty little tools at my fingertips and it all looked rather professional.

This was one of the first ones I did:

Nothing show-stopping–just a simple 60s/70s inspired Dolman sleeved coatdress

I did a few more of these, and I began to see a sort cohesion between them. I had, almost unintentionally had created a color palette between the first three looks:

I created these looks right around the time that the resort collections were showing so in my mind I had sort of designed the clothes accordingly. While they don’t really have any real direct correlation between them, they felt like they went together just “swimmingly”

After a while, determined to create a complete collection I had designed a fourth look. This look pulled the first three together quite nicely. To be honest, I love this look. It has a sort of Indiana Jones look to it…but with bubble shorts.

And this is how all the looks look together

Overall, while the looks had no exact inspiration at first (I think just finding an “ease” in the clothing was my sole inspiration) in hindsight there’s a clear common thread of the 1920’s and 30’s but that’s about 75% of my design references.

Doing digital sketches allows a lot of freedom. I still love sketching and my best digital sketches are the ones that were on paper first. I’m still working on completing this Resort Collection and hope to finish it soon.

Sew on!

Emily

PS I’ve started sewing the project mentioned in my last post! Expect to see some pics in my next post! Can’t wait!!!