NYFW SS14: Tadashi Shoji

It’s NYFW!! For the first time in a year I’m actually able to cover it! That’s one of the perks of graduating. I’ve decided, with these circumstances, that I would dust off the old blog and get her back up and running. I’m making an initiative for myself, to use social media to its full potential to promote myself as a fashion designer, blogger, and vlogger (my youtube channel is boldlysewing).

So yeah, fashion week. It’s happening. Let’s look and some pretty dresses and I’ll tell you what I think.

Let me preface this with the fact that I love Tadashi Shoji. His work is always stellar. I was actually extremely fortunate to get to see his show last season and it was a dream.

Style.com‘s review had a great quote from him, “You don’t have to wear big shoulder pads and dark suits to be a powerful woman.” So much love for this quote. You can see this throughout the collection.

Overall, this is one marvelous collection. It’s like opening up a box of lacy, flowery and plaid macarons (someone needs to get on that. Plaid macarons would be amazing.).

Let’s break it down with some highlights:

From Style.com

From Style.com

This is going to sound like a ‘duh’ statement, but I like to start with the first look. In a fashion show the first look should be, in many ways, the thesis statement of your collection. I should be able to tell you exactly what the rest of the collection is going to be about from this first look. What do you see? Really look at it and see what you think you’ll be expecting from the rest of the collection. First off, there’s the sea foam green. That clues us into the color scheme. There’s the top, in that sheer plaid. That gives us another hint, and then there’s the metallic sheen of the dress. So what can we expect to see? Pastels, metallics and plaids. Overall I think this look is cute. It doesn’t quite muster up to the rest, but it’s still very pretty.

from Style.com

from Style.com

This is very cute. Love the lace, love the colors. I could see Michelle Obama or maybe even (and this may just be the model) Michelle Dockery wearing it.

From Style.com

From Style.com

I can’t decide whether I like or dislike this. I feel like theres a bit more sheer to actual dress than I would prefer. The waistline should be more defined and then the should be a bit shorter.

Style.com

Style.com

This is fabulous. I want this dress. My favorite piece in the entire collection. Don’t need to say much more. Bravo.

Style.com

Style.com

I want this one too. So cute, and I want those sandals too.

From Style.com

From Style.com

2nd favorite dress in the collection. It’s so pretty and ethereal. Those shoes do not belong though. Should have gotten an extra pair of those white sandals

From Style.com

From Style.com

This would make for a great press event/premiere dress. Love it.

Here are some more of my favorites:

From Style.com

From Style.com

Met Gala Part 2

I’m sorry about my abruptness with the last post. I had 49 photos in my folder for this post, and that was from the 150 photos style.com had. I knew I had to hurry because it had already been a week–anyway, I’ve gotten a very good night’s sleep so here’s a bit more info.

The Met Gala is for the Costume Institute’s new exhibit Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations. Elsa Schiaparelli and Miuccia Prada, though from different periods, share a lot of similarities. That’s the reason for all of the Prada on the red carpet. I kind of want to go and see this, but it closes the day I move in at FIT (yup got accepted!) so that probably won’t work.

Anyway we got some looks to review!

Hilary Swank in Michael Kors

From Style.com

I love this dress! The neckline could be a teeny tiny bit lower, but other than that, it just looks lovely. The color was a smart choice and she looks like she’s loving it too.

Hailee Steinfeld in Miu Miu

From style.com

This is adorable. Not in that condescending way, I love it. It seems like the younger actresses are pressured, or atleast feel as though they have to wear the more mature looks, but for a fifteen year old, this isn’t just appropriate, it’s elegant and classic. High five for Hailee! I actually kinda secretly want it for myself.

Christina Ricci in Thakoon

From Style.com

It looks like she got in a fight with a bolt of silk, and lost. Joking aside, The color seems wrong for her skin tone. Maybe just a shade or two lighter or darker. The main dress part is very nice. I would get rid of the train thingy though.

Kristen Wiig in Stella McCartney

Style.com

I really liked this look too. Great color, great silhouette. Shoes are meh, but the dress is great. It’s funny, as obsessed with long flowy evening gowns as I am, I really love the mid calf dresses on the Red Carpet. Emma Stone wore one during the red carpet season that I really loved and I like this one as well.

Brooke Shields

From Style.com

I like it. The print and the color are an interesting choice. I don’t quite know what else to say about it.

Jessica Stam in Dior Haute Couture

From Style.com

I loved this look several years back and always wished someone would wear it on the red carpet. It looks absolutely captivating. I’m not quite sure what’s going on with her hair, but I’ll turn a blind eye because that dress is epic. I also love the more casual looking bangles with it…so awesome!

So that’s it for now, I think I need a break from all of this red carpet stuff, so I’m going to have lunch, and then maybe I’ll tackle a resort collection or something.

Runway Rundown: Carolina Herrera, Derek Lam and Louis Vuitton

I know I’ve been reviewing collections on an individual basis but honestly, resort collections are normally small (unlike Oscar De La Renta and Bottega Veneta) that combined with the fact that I am so far behind on them, has led me to consolidate.

So fasten your seatbelts, here we go:

Carolina Herrera

Image from Style.com

I really really love this coat. I handed my IPod over to my mom and asked for her two cents on this collection and when she came to this look she noted that there was too much going, I hadn’t seen it before but I’m beginning to see it. It really isn’t a problem of design. I think that alone this coat would be impeccable, but it’s in the styling where the fault lies. The scarf needs to go–and be replaced by a more solid scarf. Otherwise it’s a gorgeous, elegant coat. I mean imagine that coat with a basic desaturated pink dress underneath…gorgeous!

Image from Style.com

 I really don’t like this one. The skirt looks too paper towel-y for my tastes. The silhouette also looks off. Perhaps there’s a body type that that would be flattering on (none are coming to mind right now) but I just find it aesthetically displeasing. Also the belt isn’t helping the look and the white on the bodice and the white don’t match or go together.

From Style.com

Carolina seems to have caught Mondo fever, and it seems to be a nasty case. This is a train wreck. Not only is the dress rick-rackfully awful, the print is just awful and even worse–it isn’t lined up! Oh and don’t get me started on that fleshy pink on the straps. I mean if you’re paying the big bucks for a dress, because I’m assuming a Carolina Herrera dress doesn’t come cheap–you might as well get one where A) You’re not drowning in a massive print B)The prints actually match–this usually involves spending more money on more fabric but it just looks very amateurish C) The “splash of color” isn’t a scary fleshy pink.
Derek Lam

From Style.com

Not sure exactly what’s going on with the top, but I love the bold blue in the sash and bag handle. Exceptionally and very, very, cute.

From Style.com

Another wonderfully put together look. While it isn’t my average cup of tea, I really like it. It’s graphic but subtle, with some great proportions going on.

From Style.com

Not so subtle, but still fabulous. The neckline is refreshingly different and goes beautifully with the lines created by the pockets and the color blocking of the pants.

From Style.com

Loooooove it! Very cute, very casual–I love it! I would definitely wear that myself!

Louis Vuitton

Overall this collection was just fabulous.  It’s a modern take on a sort of 1920s meets 1960s look. It’s a textbook example of how to have a period as an inspiration and not have it be too literal. Hard to say much that’s negative about it all of the below looks are absolutely fabulous. So here are some fabulous photos and enjoy!

Until next time,
Sew On!
Emily

Runway Rundown: Oscar De La Renta Resort 2012

I think I’m on a roll! I think that if I just keep at this with enough diligence, I’ll get around to posting on a much more regular basis. I really want to try to keep on the ball with all of the resort shows, or at least the big names and my personal favorites, so I decided to get as much as I could done on my day off and then release them a little more spread out. At least now I can do something more productive with my free time.

The next resort show on my list is Oscar De La Renta. I love his designs, they are the epitome of elegance. There’s also this wonderful quality to his clothes, that no matter what age you are, be it 18 or 82, there’s something in his collections for you. He’s also one of my major design influences. Yes, I am an Oscar fan. A big one.

This collection was kind of like a Lady Gaga music video. The first time through was confusing and by the end I had to sit there and just try to make the slightest bit of sense of it. After about watch three or four, in a crazy way it was beginning to make sense.

The over-arching themes were Picasso and Flamenco, as far as I could tell. It was a very graphic array of looks, and definitely pushed the boundaries of the typical Oscar De La Renta aesthetic. Like the Bottega Veneta collection, there were looks I liked, and looks that I didn’t. There were certainly a lot more of both.

Looks I Liked:

I loooove this look! I love how the stripe-detail on the shirt follows down into the skirt. I love how bold and graphic the horizontal stripes are. The blazer is also absolutely fabulous.

I want this dress. Actually I’d settle for a bolt of that fabric. I love digital, non-traditional prints like this. The color is a stunner, too. I am usually very skeptic when it comes to bubble hems, but this one really works for me. I would love to see someone like Lea Michelle or Leighton Meester (I’m sure this will pop up on an episode of Gossip Girl). It would look really great with a black cardigan too, with a wide leather headband, black pumps and patterned tights.

There are always a lot of Red Carpet looks in an Oscar De La Renta collection, and this one (as well as another one) really stood out to me. I do not understand the sweater, but the dress is unexpectedly refreshing. It has an antique, ornate feel but it’s fabulously airy. I really enjoy the line work on the bottom half. I haven’t seen video of this collection, but I bet it moved like a dream.

I feel like on the right person this could be a very memorable red carpet look. There isn’t much to say about this look, other than I would very much like to see the back

I would have liked a smidgen more structure, but it’s hard to tell on models. I love the graphic element of it. The dark blues and the sequins or beading are a homerun. This would also make for a knockout red carpet look.

Looks I Wasn’t All That Crazy About:

On a piece-by-piece basis, I like this look. I love the skirt, I kinda dig the jacket but together I just feel like it’s a bit too noisy. If it were me, I would pair the skirt with a white button up blouse, probably something more bohemian than the average oxford shirt I would then pair it with a simple black blazer and some statement jewelry. That skirt is a star and it needs a strong supporting cast–not an extra strong lead. The jacket would look fabulous with shorts or high waisted black trousers and a simple tank top.

Remember how I said I was skeptic about bubble hems? This is why. There’s a certain ratio in which bubble skirts work and it has to do with length and volume. This dress is too long for the lack of puffiness. It just kind of looks like a balloon about a week after it was inflated. In the words of the great Heidi, “It looks sad.” Which is in itself sad because the color is so vibrant and fabulous. The top is iffy too. Don’t know what’s going on with the sash.

Feather duster. ‘Nuff said.

And last but not least is the section I’d like to call Michelle Obama’s new wardrobe.

All images from Style.com

Runway Rundown: Bottega Veneta Resort 2012

Once again, it’s been a while since my last post—but I’m making a comeback (hopefully!)! I just started working but I think I can get back into the groove of things.

Resort Collections are kicking off and it’s the perfect time for me to do something I’ve always wanted to do; runway reviews! It’s a daunting task—especially during the regular seasons—but resort is a lot less structured. There is no set “resort week” it’s more like a month or two. For me, it’s a good way to tide over until the spring shows and the Haute Couture—which will be in July.

So far, there have only been three major resort collections: Chanel, Oscar De La Renta and Bottega Veneta. I just viewed the latter one this morning and felt that there was a good range of looks.

Bottega Veneta is one of the top luxury brands. Their motto kind of says it all about them; “When your own initials are enough.”

Overall, there were looks I loved, looks I didn’t, and looks that weren’t all that memorable. I’ll show you guys what I thought were the best and worst.

This one, by far, is one of my favorite looks. I love the dress–the bustier/corset details are fantastic as well as the contrast between the two fabrics and the piping. On paper, all of those elements would be wince-inducing–far too much for one dress but somehow it all comes together. It would make one fantastic Red Carpet look. Oh and that jacket? Want it. It’s fabulous.

First of all, the color is just marvelous. It’s hard to imagine that anyone could look bad in that color. I’ve always had a weak spot for trench coats–and that’s a marvelous specimen. The dress is equally stellar. It looks like it’s just dripping off the model. Absolutely stunning.

I’m not quite sure exactly what type of look this is, if I had to guess it looks like a knit bathing suit with a cardigan. As impractical as it is, I dig it. It would make a fabulous editorial look. I love how it sort of straddles the line between sexy and conservative. I love the fabric too.

I feel like this look is a fashion disaster waiting to happen. The fact that it’s capris is a big problem. I’ve never really liked them, and they really don’t do any favors to anyone, particularly in that length. Add that with it being a strapless romper thingy and the taffeta garbage bag effect of the fabric and it’s much too much.

Let’s break it down: It’s a pepto-pink full length dress with a puff sleeve with a corset with harness-y details. Like many of the looks, there’s quite a lot to it. It may just be my own objective opinion, but I just don’t like it. I think it’s the harness details. They were in other parts of the collection, and I just didn’t get it.

What do you guys think?

Enjoy

Em

Note: All images from Style.com

Return of the Red Carpet Doctor!

Now, Anne Hathaway alongside James Franco, is hosting the Oscars. I can’t particularly recall a time in my own memory when a woman has hosted an awards show other than Whoopie Goldberg and Chelsea Handler at the VMAs (let’s not go there.). So this is challenging because there’s really no precedent. Men just wear what they’d wear otherwise—tuxes. I mean, will she pull a Lady Gaga and have four wardrobe changes or simply wear something more toned down? What about just one crazy amazing dress? For this reason I’ve set up several different options. Here’s what she wore to the Golden Globes .
From Style.com
I liked it. I didn’t love it—not nearly as much as her dress form the Globes last year, but I still enjoyed it.
So Hathaway’s been big into Armani recently and seems to be settling into a sort of “loyalty” with them. Surprisingly, there’s a lot more that goes into Red Carpet dressing than picking a pretty dress. Since having a celebrity wear your dress on the Red Carpet is some of the best PR a designer can get, design houses and labels pour all sorts of money into getting celebrities to their shows and getting them to wear their clothes on the Red Carpet.
But anyway, like I said, I am including a few possibilities.

Look #1 The likely candidate

From Style.com
This is from Armani’s Haute Couture collection. It’s a relatively “simple” looking dress (which means it really isn’t. It’s Haute Couture. That’s hours upon hours of hand done work) The fabric’s the real visual interest in this context. I’m not sure how this would translate to television and whether or not viewers would be distracted by the sheen, but she could definitely work it.
Here are the accessories:

Balmain silver leather open toe shoes
775 EUR – montaignemarket.com
Silver heels »

 

Tribal print clutch
$160 – karenmillen.com
Framed clutch »

 

 

 

I thought since she’s hosting the Oscars, she shouldn’t take herself as seriously as she normally does with this outfit. With the accessories I was thinking of almost a superhero theme that’s right on the edge of being kitschy. That’s when it works, right at the edge of the cliff, there’s a small margin of error before you fall off and your shoes don’t match.

So what I’d love for her is my second choice:

From Style.com
I LOVE this one so much. The instant I saw this, I thought of Anne Hathaway. Well I thought maybe a smidgen more of Audrey Hepburn, but that’s close enough. It’s fabulously regal and would certainly find its place among the Red Carpet Pantheon with Keira Knightley’s dress, Barbara Streisand’s get up and many others. Okay, maybe I’m exaggerating, but that simply shows how in love with this dress I am. I also can’t recall a time she’s ever worn McQueen (which would also make this a magnificent dress for the Met Gala even though it’s by Burton) I can just imagine her with hair in some fabulously impeccable manner and the most fabulously jewelry, maybe even a tiara!
It’s so fabulously regal!

Here are the accesories:

Marine Jeweled Ankle-Wrap Sandals
$1,995 – saksfifthavenue.com
High heel sandals »

SAMURAI GOLD EMBROIDERED SKULL CLUTCH
$2,195 – alexandermcqueen.com
Skull handbags »

Loree Rodkin Flower earrings
9,300 GBP – brownsfashion.com
Fleur de lis jewelry »

Oh no! I’m mixing silver and gold! Noooooooooo!
Actually, in some cases it can work. With this, the silver’s closer to a black and the gold’s already a part of the dress.

So that’s it for Anne Hathaway, up next: Amy Adams!
Sew on!
Emily

Up in the Air

So there’s been yet another gap in my posting. I finally got my email from FIT. I have started my portfolio and have until February 1 to finish it. I was worried about it before seeing the email, but it’s BIG. It’s not unfeasible, but I have been putting a lot of prep work off. Actually, all of it. Well I did two sketches, but I still have a long way to go. It’s been hard doing this during the holidays, which have been a huge ball of stress, not those squishy ones that relieve stress but more like a dodgeball straight to the head. The holidays were marvelous—don’t get me wrong—but I certainly am not sad to see them go.
One good thing that came out of all of this craziness was travel. I know for many, travel, especially during the holidays, is a very stressful thing. I know I’ve had my share of years. Car rides from New Jersey to New York and the car rides from Tennessee to New York were dreaded, to say the very, very least. This year, however, we opted to fly. It’s just my Mom, my brother, and myself. I don’t know about you guys, but I absolutely love to travel. I love flying especially (unless O’Haire is involved). There’s something so elegant about all of it, even with screaming kids in the background or four plus hour layovers.
I’m not sure what it is, but creative juices flow exceptionally well at 10,000 feet. On my way up here (I’m writing this post from Islip Gate A3. Don’t try to come and get my autograph, there’s no wifi here, so I’m writing in Word and won’t post until I find some which most likely means home.) I was sketching like crazy, and I sketched or colored (I got a beautiful set of copic markers for Christmas!) around seven or so sketches. I just churned out one after another and they all look pretty good. I may have to do a few more and I need to purchase a few more markers (I’m thinking khaki, black and brown. Maybe even a green and purple.) Here’s a little sampling:


What I really love about this is whole process is the “design challenge.” Essentially you’re designing for a woman going on a weekend vacation going to a destination of your choice. The catch is that she can only bring 5 items: 2 tops, 2 bottoms and a jacket. You have to design these items and they all have to coordinate. I’ll be honest, I am not a huge fan of sketching separates. I enjoy designing dresses for the most part. My second favorite is to design suits. I love designing really unique suits simply because work attire has become so overly casual and dull. It’s also because I love the thirties and forties so much.
I’ve really been struggling with this so far. Trying to make two separately unique looks that also can stand alone together and then have to design a jacket is a difficult. It wouldn’t be a challenge if it wasn’t. It’s really got me thinking about how pieces need to work together in a collection and perhaps even other designers’ work. I mean, do you wear the same labels from head to toe? How often do celebrities wear looks exactly as they are on the model? It’s few. People like to put their own twist on fashion. I think I’m going to keep that in mind more often when I design.
It’s funny. When I first talked about doing this (see: so it’s been a while…) I said my biggest concern was the sketches. Now that I’m actually working on it and have a deadline the biggest hurdle will be the sewn garments. I never fully realized the sheer scale of work I had to do with all of my projects. I have one where I have to redo the gathers and re sew the bodice to the skirt. I have pockets to fix. Armholes to blind stitch. An entire project to finish. I have to iron all of them as well. I think I’m spending the remainder of my break working on my sewing projects simply because it’s so much easier sewing at home.
While I didn’t set foot in New York City just being in the state and with family has really gotten me excited about this. I want to go to FIT and everything I can to show them that I would be an excellent addition to their student body. It truly is an amazing, but slightly scary thing, being so close to your dreams
Have a fantastic holiday and New Year
Sew On!
Emily